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About
the Author: Gaylord Staveley, a
native of Iowa, discovered whitewater boating in 1956 as a
passenger with Mexican Hat Expeditions. The following year
he returned as a partner and boatman in the business and at
the end of that season, purchased the company. From 1958 through
1969, he organized and led expeditions on the Colorado, Green,
and San Juan Rivers in sixteen-foot wooden rowboats. In 1969
Gaylord organized and led an expedition that retraced, in
wooden rowboats, Major Powell's 1869 route of discovery. His
account of that expedition, Broken Waters Sing, was
published by Little Brown and Company in 1971. Since1970,
his company, renamed Canyoneers, Inc., has conducted Grand
Canyon river trips in larger inflatable boats.
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| INTRODUCTION |
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Nowadays
we run the river as an adventure vacation, but in earlier years
it was run for different reasons, and through the years the
reasons for running it have changed significantly.
Early in
the 18th century, trappers worked their way down sections of
it to obtain beaver pelts for the North American fur trade,
and prospectors came to see what gold and silver they could
find in its bars and beaches. An ex-soldier with a bent for
exploration ran it to see where it went and what was along the
way. A survey expedition was organized to see whether a railroad
could be built along it. Then came some sportsmen adventurers,
who ran it because of intellectual curiosity, or the desire
for distinction. And finally, it became a vacation adventure
organized and led on a scheduled basis by professional outfitters
and guides.
We invite
you to come along on a short voyage through history, to see
how these trips have evolved from the experience of earlier
adventurers.
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| 1869.
JOHN WESLEY POWELL |
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Powell was
a civil war officer who later took a teaching position at Illinois
Normal University. He was by nature an explorer and spent considerable
time tramping the upper Midwest. In the summer of 1867, he and
some of his students made a field trip to the headwaters and
tributaries of the Green River. Intrigued with the country,
he returned in 1868, wintered there, and decided to mount an
expedition to explore the course and navigability of the river.
On May 24,
1869, Major Powell and a small band of men launched four boats
to begin what would be a 99-day expedition from known territory
in Wyoming to known territory in Nevada. Between the two settlements
lay some 1000 miles of what Powell called "the Great Unknown."
He and his men basically had to invent expedition river running.
The boats, stout and heavy, were off-the-shelf navy longboats
with sharp cutwaters, meant to be rowed bow-first on the sea
rather than down rock-studded rivers.
Powell's
discovery run, fraught with excitement and tragedy, proved that
the river originating in northwest Wyoming was the same river
that ended in the Gulf of California, that it went through the
Grand Canyon, and that it could be traveled by boat. As they
came down the river they took periodic observations of latitude
and longitude, elevations, and estimates of distance that allowed
mapmakers to show the river's course. In 1871-1872 Powell led
a second expedition over most of the same route. Several accounts
of the expeditions were published in government documents and
popular publications of the time and were read avidly by those
who planned to try the river later.
|
| 1889.
BROWN-STANTON |
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Frank M.
Brown was a Denver realtor and businessman interested in investing
in "a railroad scheme." Knowing that Powell had been
able to get boats down the entire course of the river, Brown
hired an engineer named Robert Brewster Stanton to determine
the feasibility of a railway along the river from Colorado to
California.
Brown, noting
Powell's experiences with heavy boats, took a contrary approach.
In a naive attempt to go as lightly as possible, he supplied
the survey expedition with five boats of the "hunting and
pleasure type." They were so fragile that two of them already
had splits in their planking when they arrived on the train,
and they were so shallow that they had almost no freeboard when
loaded. Stanton had requested experienced oarsman but Brown
chose to have the surveyors do the rowing and brought two "guests"
along to help with it. Life jackets were purposely excluded
to save space and weight. These mistakes and omissions were
largely responsible for distractive incidents on the Green,
and then the deaths by drowning of Brown and two other members
of the expedition in the first few miles after they set forth
into the head of Grand Canyon.
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| 1889-90.
STANTON |
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With the
loss of the three men, Stanton and the remaining members of
his crew climbed out of the canyon. Stanton, succeeding Brown
as leader of the expedition, reorganized and re-outfitted the
trip, with heavier and deeper boats made of oak. They left Lees
Ferry on December 28, 1889, reached the end of Grand Canyon
at Grand Wash Cliffs on March 17, 1890, and ended at the mouth
of the Colorado on April 27, 1890. Stanton's account of the
expedition wasn't published until thirty years later, but it
too became required reading for those who would follow.
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| 1893-94.
NATHAN GALLOWAY |
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Nathan Galloway,
a Vernal, Utah, trapper and prospector, is credited with having
introduced the idea of running a rapids-filled river by backing
down it stern first to slow the boat and see where he was going,
a technique that made it far safer. Galloway's first known trip
into the Grand Canyon area was in December-January of 1893,
down the river through Glen Canyon to Lees Ferry. Whether he
actually introduced the stern-first technique or not, he was
instrumental in spreading it among a large group of fellow prospectors
and trappers who were working the river bars and beaches in
the 1890's and early 1900's.
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| 1896-97.
GEORGE FLAVELL
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George Flavell,
the son of a New Jersey farmer, began wandering as a young man,
and at about age 25, ended up in lower California where from
1890 to 1893 he made his living as a commercial hunter and trapper,
roaming back and forth across the border with Mexico.
In the summer
of 1896, Flavell and a sidekick named Ramon Montez went to Green
River, Wyoming, and built a flat-bottomed boat fifteen and a
half feet long. They launched it on August 27 and ran down the
Green and Colorado, arriving sixty-five days later back in their
old hunting grounds in lower California.
Flavell
is noteworthy because his journal leads to the conclusion that
Flavell either talked with Galloway or that by 1896, the stern-first
technique was in fairly wide use on the canyon-locked upper
river. Flavell, who came from the lower river a thousand miles
downstream, was not familiar with this approach and he got it
backwards; he ran by putting the stem (bow) downstream, and
pushing on the oars to maneuver. Our other inheritance from
Flavell is his expedition journal, The Log Of The Panthon,
which, besides being informative, is very entertaining.
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| 1896-97.
NATHAN GALLOWAY and WILLIAM RICHMOND |
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In September
1896, with Flavell and Montez already 500 miles down the Green
River, Nathan Galloway and William Richmond started down Henry's
Fork (which joins the Green from the west at the Utah-Wyoming
state line) and then ran down the Green and through Grand Canyon,
reaching Needles, California, February 17th. Although theirs
was primarily a hunting-trapping-prospecting expedition, this
established Nathan Galloway as a boatman with Grand Canyon experience.
|
| 1909.
JULIUS STONE |
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As a youthful
explorer, Julius Stone had, in 1877, visited the headwaters
of the Green River. In ensuing years he became a wealthy Columbus,
Ohio, manufacturer. By 1898, Stone had developed a personal
interest in a Glen Canyon dredging enterprise being pushed by
Robert Brewster Stanton, the man who had conducted the1899 railroad
survey and Stone became the dredging company's president. Because
of this, he met--and for a time employed--Nathan Galloway, the
prospector-boatman.
Stone became
enthralled with the canyon country. In 1909 he organized a trip,
built four boats, and hired Galloway, then age forty-five, to
guide him down the river from Green River, Wyoming, to Needles,
California, first having Galloway come to Ohio to collaborate
on boat design.
The expedition
left Green River on September 12th and reached Needles on November
19th. The boats were run by Galloway, Stone, Charles Sharp,
and a Vernal newspaper shop helper named Seymour S. Dubendorff,
for whom a Grand Canyon rapid is named. Dubendorff noted in
his diary that the trip "proved the efficacy of Mr. Galloway's
method of running fast water."
|
| 1911.
THE KOLB BROTHERS |
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Ellsworth
and Emery Kolb, then running a photo studio at the rim of Grand
Canyon decided to film the river. Ellsworth had applied to be
photographer on the 1909 Stone trip, but when the position wasn't
available the brothers decided to run their own trip. Using
drawings obtained from Julius Stone, they built two boats similar
to his 1909 boats. Ellsworth and Emery launched at Green River,
Utah, on September 8, 1911, and ran to Needles, California,
arriving there on January 8, 1912. The film of their expedition
was shown to tourists at the south rim of Grand Canyon four
times a day for 65 years; undoubtedly the most sustained campaign
ever of letting people know about river running.
|
| 1923.
THE USGS "BIRDSEYE" EXPEDITION |
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Colonel
Claude H. Birdseye was Chief Topographic Engineer of the U.S.
Geological Survey, which, in collaboration with Southern California
Edison Company, set out to survey the riverine portion of Grand
Canyon for dam sites. This expedition, which was on the river
from August 1, to October 20, 1923, was notable in that Emery
Kolb was head boatman and that the resulting "Birdseye"
maps were extremely useful to succeeding river runners.
|
| 1927.
CLYDE EDDY |
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It had for
years, Clyde Eddy wrote later, been his dream "to go by
boat down some turbulent river." In 1919 he rode a tourist
mule down the Hermit Trail, saw the Colorado rushing by, and
concluded, "this is my river." Eight years later,
married, working in New York City, and having read accounts
of the Powell, Kolb, and Birdseye expeditions, he ordered three
heavy oak boats, hired Nathan Galloway's son, Parley, as guide,
and recruited some young men from several college campuses as
crewmen. His group of thirteen men, an Airedale dog, and a cub
bear left Green River, Utah, on June 27, 1927, entered the head
of Grand Canyon on July 18th, and reached Needles, California,
on Aug 8, 1927, an 800 mile journey. After his expedition Eddy
wrote a book titled Down The World's Most Dangerous River.
|
| 1934.
FRAZIER - HATCH |
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Russell
Frazier, a Utah doctor, and some of his friends decided to go
down the river to put up a plaque honoring the men who left
Powell's expedition at Separation Canyon. At Vernal, Utah, they
hired Alton and Bus Hatch, then known for their frequent trips
on the upper Green, to build boats and take them down the river.
In 1929, Bus Hatch had established Hatch Expeditions on the
Green and Yampa, which subsequently led to the company establishing
operations in Grand Canyon.
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| 1937-38.
BUZZ HOLMSTROM |
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In 1937,
Haldane "Buzz" Holmstrom, a service station attendant
from Oregon, built his own boat and ran it solo down 1100 miles
of river from Green River, Wyoming. His boat incorporated the
best features of successful whitewater boats to date. Holmstrom
skillfully used the stern first technique of whitewater boating
brought to the river in the late1800s.
|
| 1938.
NEVILLS EXPEDITIONS |
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Norman Nevills
of Mexican Hat, Utah began carrying passengers for hire on the
San Juan River in 1936 and in the summer of 1938 took the first
fare-paying passengers down the Green and Colorado rivers. In
preparing for his 1938 expedition, he read the published works
about previous expeditions and talked with as many living river
runners as he could. His boats reflected the advances in whitewater
boat design made by Galloway and Holmstrom. Nevills created
the first public awareness of professionally led whitewater
expeditions and the stern-first technique, which he called "facing
your danger." After his death the company was renamed Mexican
Hat Expeditions and, several years later, Canyoneers.
|
| 1954.
HATCH RIVER EXPEDITIONS |
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Bus Hatch,
Frank Hatch and "Smuss" Allen ran eight paying passengers
through Grand Canyon, using the first known motorized pontoons--a
twenty-eight foot bridge pontoon and a ten-man life raft--and
established Hatch River Expeditions in Grand Canyon.
|
| 1955.
GEORGIE WHITE |
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Georgie
White, later known as "Woman Of The River," explored
the upper and lower sections of the Colorado river for several
years, began running Glen Canyon trips in 1951, and then in
1952 rowed herself through Grand Canyon in an inflatable ten-man
life raft.
In1955 she
began carrying passengers through Grand Canyon in motorized
war-surplus bridge pontoons. Her introduction of "soft
boats", large and small, provided a new way of running
the river, and she used a then-infant phenomenon called television
to boost the public awareness and popularity of Grand Canyon
river trips.
|
| 1955.
P.T. REILLY |
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P.T. "Pat"
Reilly was a Nevills boatman in 1948 and 1949 who subsequently
began experimenting with wooden fishing dories as Grand Canyon
boats. Between 1955 and 1965 he made a number of "family
and friends" trips in Grand Canyon, experimenting with
wooden and fiberglass hulls, and oars of various calibers and
constructions.
|
| 1965.
MARTIN LITTON |
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Martin Litton,
a magazine travel editor, had taken a 1955 trip through Grand
Canyon as a passenger with P.T. Reilly. Litton became a Reilly
boatman, and about 1962, the two men began modifying fishing
dories to carry paying passengers through big whitewater, eventually
creating the "Grand Canyon dory" which could carry
four passengers. In 1965 Litton acquired Reilly's dories, and
in 1969 he established the company called Grand Canyon Dories,
making dory trips a viable addition to the spectrum of professionally
led choices available.
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